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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: boudicca
Date: 09-25-2004, 09:59 PM (1 of 14)
Hello there, I am intending on purchasing a five-thread serger in the near future and was hoping you could help me with a few questions before I blow my money.

The first is regarding the advantages, if there are indeed any, of a free-arm. I generally prefer flatbed sewing, but I have heard that certain operations, such as jeans hems, are virtually impossible without a free arm serger. Your opinions please...

The second is about the 4/2 stitch - the two thread chain with the two-thread overlock. Does this stitch perform any function that the 5-thread, mock safety or plain 3-thread overlock does not? Certain knits perhaps? I have seen some 5-thread sergers without it; do you need it when you have a 5-thread capability?

Last but not least (thanks if you've actually read this far), can the width of the overlocking be changed on all five-thread sergers? And if so, how narrow can the overlocking be made? Reason being I am hoping to finish some stretchy knits with the kind of edge you see on a lot of t-shirts these days in place of the coverhem - it is as narrow as a rolled hem, but it appears at least to be overlocked. Does this actually have a name?

Any help you can possibly offer will be greatly appreciated! :smile:
User: boudicca
Member since: 09-25-2004
Total posts: 4
From: Kylnne2
Date: 09-26-2004, 05:25 AM (2 of 14)
Hi, I will try to answer some of your questions to the best of my ability but I am sure others can offer more advice. The free arm capability is nice but I have seen some owners with free arms post that their model had a wide free arm which did them not much good. I think sergers might vary in size in free arms, so I would check this out. As for the stitch you mentioned. If not a rolled hem it could be a stretch wrapped, stretch knit, overcast or a 2 thread. Sergers offer several stitches. Also they offer several cover hems. The triple cover and the double cover either wide or narrow. There is possibly more coverhems that I am not familiar with yet. The 5 threads usually do the cover stitch..but not all of them do. I saw one model on line that does not offer a cover hem. Some 5 threads only do a double cover some do triple and double. I have a 4 thread that does all three plus the chain stitch. The chain stitch is easy to rip out and can be used for basting or for a growing child where you might want to change the size of a garment. The chain stitch is also used in decorative work. 5 threads can do a lot when it comes to deco work including a beaded or braided chain stitch. A serger that has the 2 thread can give you a 2 thread flatlock. If you only have a 3/4 thread you can still get a 3 thread flatlock along with the regular serging stiches such as rolled hem etc. I would consider ease of use, quality and durability in your purchase. Easy to thread and convert to rolled hem. No vibration..and also price. I reccommend shopping around for the price and test driving if possible. Some sergers come with videos but dealer support and classes offered is worth it if possible.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: Kylnne2
Date: 09-26-2004, 05:34 AM (3 of 14)
I did forget something..most sergers today have stitch width and length controls where some of the older ones did not. Differential feed is an important feature. Also a serger with auto tensions and tilt needles for easy changing are nice features. Some sergers have auto switches to change the stitch finger to do rolled hems and some you have to change the plate. The same with coverstitch. Some are a bugger to set up and some are not. That's why I would test drive a few..to check them out. If you cannot test drive then I suggest checking out dealers on line and noting the features and also on line check out the ratings and reviews by users.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: Kylnne2
Date: 09-27-2004, 04:05 AM (4 of 14)
boudicca..I was just thinking about your last question in regards to the stitch on knits. If it is not one of the stitches that I mentioned in my above posts could you be referring to the "picot" stitch?
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: mommydionne
Date: 09-27-2004, 05:50 PM (5 of 14)
Hi I just purchased a new serger about 2 weeks ago :bluewink:
(the old one RIP finally died after 14 years of service)

I went with a viking 2/3/4 thread model 910
I did test drive the 5 thread 936 (very cool machine) but decided I didn't need to spend $700 more to get the cover stitch as I have a computerized bernina sewing machine which will allow me to use a 5mm twin needle and get a very similar effect.
Most of the new ones have differential feed (neat too! my old singer was before that time) and lots of options, you can do a narrow 3 thread overlock for finish work (is this the stitch you were referring to?) and rolled hems etc.
Threads had a good article in about 6 months ago comparing most of what is on the domestic market, you might be able to pull it up online.

the 4/2 overlock gives you a stitch that stretches (the 5 thread safety has no stretch) and is fairly narrow, my machine does not do this. I found the 4 thread overlock gives me enough stretch and stability for most of my stuff (mainly kidstuff at this time) if you did a lot of active wear things you might want this.

I would go for a free arm machine, but the viking one is wide and not that great for skinny kid sleeves and legs.

Almost all of the higher end sergers (which is where all the 5 thread capacity is) can do variable width cutting and rolled hems.

I actually went shopping with my heart set on a 5 thread serger and cover stitch but walked out with the 4 b/c the dealer was great at going through what I needed and what I had at home already,

take the fabric you use as well when you go testdriving b/c I find the dealers often only use sturdy cotton which always works out well, mine had a bag of silk, satin, polar fleece etc to play with, took about an hour to go through all the features so plan for some time.

DH is still blown away by how much this stuff can cost :whacky: but it's cheaper than his harley :bluewink:
good luck
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: Kylnne2
Date: 09-28-2004, 04:36 AM (6 of 14)
Jeanette, I too was shopping for a 5 thread because I wanted a coverlock. I also ended up with a 4 thread Elna 744. I already had a 4 thread but this Elna has 3 coverlock stitches, the triple and wide and narrow double and the chain and auto tensions and tilt needles. Being that it was also on sale it was an offer I couldn't refuse.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: Hogmami
Date: 10-02-2004, 12:43 PM (7 of 14)
Last Christmas my husband got me a serger. He went into the Viking store and told them I wanted a serger. They took him thru all the ones They had there. He got me the huseylock. I had never used a serger but love it. I still use my sewing machine, which is a Viking 425, and husband got that for Christmas 5 years ago. I guess I will just send him to buy all my machines for me.
Carolyn
Michigan
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004
Total posts: 800
From: boudicca
Date: 10-02-2004, 01:22 PM (8 of 14)
Here is an image of the stitch I mean - click this link.

http://image.inkfrog.com/click_enlarge1.php?image=ASYMTOP.jpg&username=FashionFinder

That's not a rolled hem, is it? If you know what it is, please help me.

"mommydione", you said "the 4/2 overlock gives you a stitch that stretches (the 5 thread safety has no stretch)", but doesn't that 3-thread overlock stretch? I was really wanting to know whether the 4/2 has a function that is not performed by either the 5-thread, the mock-safety, or the 3-thread. Do you know of any situations where the 4/2 is preferable if I have a machine with the ability to do those other stitches?

And once again, one the free-arm - I know people have prefernces when it comes to freearm vs. flatbed, but is a free-arm ever completely essential in your view?
User: boudicca
Member since: 09-25-2004
Total posts: 4
From: Kylnne2
Date: 10-03-2004, 04:03 AM (9 of 14)
boudicca, I could not see the hem in the picture up close but to me it looked like a wide rolled hem. Depending on which needle you use makes it either wide or narrow. Like I mentioned I couldn't see it up close but usually on a finer fabric like that I would use the rolled hem.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: Kylnne2
Date: 10-03-2004, 04:20 AM (10 of 14)
If your serger does a 2 thread it will have a converter to place over the upper looper. Some of the two thread stitches are used for lighter weight fabrics and construction of undergarments.You can do flatlock for the seam to pull flat for undergarments and hemming, overcast and stretch wrapped. The stretch wrapped is the stitch that has the maximum stretch. It uses the lower looper and 2 needles. For bridal and chiffons a 2 thread rolled hem rolls the fabric before encasing the edges. With this stitch you use the lower looper and one needle. The result is lighter and finer than with a 3 thread.I hope this helps.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: paroper
Date: 10-03-2004, 12:45 PM (11 of 14)
That five thread machine that does a chain stitch is the same stitch used in a lot of commercial ready-to-wear garments.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Kylnne2
Date: 10-04-2004, 05:35 AM (12 of 14)
boudicca..I think I know the name of that stitch you wanted. I think it is called the "pearl" stitch. It is used in the industry to hem chiffon etc. It is the same as the 3 thread overlock but use pearl rayon decorative thread in the upper looper and cotton thread elsewhere. The needle and lower looper thread color always match the fabric and the upper looper thread color can match or contrast the fabric.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: gramfel
Date: 10-04-2004, 11:20 AM (13 of 14)
Hi! Have you looked at the Babylock Evolve? I have one and I love it; it does the normal serging stitches, has 8 spools which can be used at one time or fewer if desired, and also does a cover stitch. One of the best things it does is Jet Air Threading! It works so easily!!

I can't answer all your questions, but there is a Yahoo group called Babylock Sergers which has lots of pros who can answer your questions. I am sure there are lots of good sergers out there, but this one also has no tension adjustments! I went from a thick pile material to a thin silky one with no adjusting, and it worked perfectly.

Good luck! Lulie :smile:
User: gramfel
Member since: 09-12-2004
Total posts: 23
From: Kylnne2
Date: 10-08-2004, 05:28 AM (14 of 14)
The differences in the mock safety and safty stitches is..one sews a staight seam beside the overlocked edge..the other combines the straight needle stitch into the overlocked. I hope this makes sense in the way I described it.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
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