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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Pudge99
Date: 01-18-2005, 10:57 AM (1 of 12)
I have noticed several people here saying it takes them all afternoon/day/night to rethread their serger.
I have to ask are you pulling all the threads out and then trying to figure out where all the thread goes? This is the only way I can think that it would take so long.
I only got one lesson when I bought my serger (because I bought it at a going out of business sale). The fastest way to rethread your serger.
It is really simple.
If you have you tension set where you like it write it down. I use a kids crayon (a dry erase marker might work too) and write on the machine right by the dial.
Next cut the threads you need to change right at the cone this leaves your machine threaded.
Remove that cone, put the new color on the stand and tie the thread in the machine to your new thread. I just hold the two threads next to each other and do a simple knot around the tip of my finger.
Next after you have tied on all you new threads, loosen your tension dials all the way.
Lift the presser foot.
Then grab your thread tail (the one down behind the needles that looks like a braid or chain) and pull. The thread should slide through the machine until it hits the needles.
Then you just snip the thread in front of the needles, cut the knots off and thread your needles. Reset your tension put the foot back down and sew a little to get a new chain/tail, and you are good to go.
This only takes about a minute. It took way longer to write about it then it does to just do it.
Hope this helps someone. I know it really helped me. I am glad the lady took the time to show me how to do it before I left with that machine. I don't think I would use it very often if I had to spend all afternoon rethreading it.
Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures
Pfaff 2040
Janome Mylock 134D
Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch
Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001
Total posts: 1375
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-18-2005, 12:58 PM (2 of 12)
Gina --
I did tie my new threads on to the old but I pulled them through one at a time. It worked pretty well but changing and threading the needles was a chore.
Then figuring out all the settings and, well, maybe all day is an exaggeration but then I had to wind bobbins for my other machine and make a label and by then it was time to start dinner so I just blamed the serger because it was an easy target. But it is doing what I wanted it to so I'm happy.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: plrlegal
Date: 01-18-2005, 02:32 PM (3 of 12)
I have a Singer 5 thread and the very first thing I did after I unpacked the machine was to set down with the manual and the video and learn to thread it from the very beginning. I can thread that baby from start to finish in about 5 minutes, run a test chain, serge a test strip to adjust the tensions if needed and I'm good to go. The big problem with using the tie on method is if a looper thread breaks during serging. With my machine, you have to unthread and rethread in order to get the broken thread back in sequence and the tie-on method does not allow me to do that.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: Pudge99
Date: 01-19-2005, 10:52 AM (4 of 12)
That sequence thing floors me. I guess I have a dinosaur of a machine. I have had it for about 6 yrs. I just bought a book that teaches you all the neat things you can do with a serger. The book talks about sequence being important too. I don't get it. If a thread breaks on my serger I just rethread it sew a new chain and sew on. I am gonna have to go look at a new serger to see why it matters so much.
Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures
Pfaff 2040
Janome Mylock 134D
Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch
Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001
Total posts: 1375
From: luv2sew
Date: 01-19-2005, 11:55 AM (5 of 12)
I, for years, would not buy a serger because my sister talked about the difficulty in threading. She drove about 45 minutes to get someone to thread it for her every time she used it. Actually, I think I was afraid of them because of this. I bought a Bernina 800DL, brought it home, read the manual and went step by step in threading it. It is important to thread the upper looper first or the thread will break. I have learned to thread the upper looper without un-threading the others but you have to be careful that the thread does not go under the lower looper thread. I have never tied the threads because my machine is so easy to thread. I cut the thread at the tension entry on top of the machine and pull the thread through until it clears the needles, then re-thread. It's just easier that way for me. I bought another Bernina, 2000DE, from a friend and it threads almost the same way. I don't have to adjust anything while threading the machines. Anyway, I'm not "afraid" of them anymore. :)

Stay warm and happy serging! luv2sew
Luv2sew
An act of kindness is never wasted!!
User: luv2sew
Member since: 05-21-2004
Total posts: 174
From: mommydionne
Date: 01-19-2005, 06:02 PM (6 of 12)
tweezers, these are my must items for threading a serger, but I did get a new viking to replace my old serger (purchased in 1990) and it threads much differently, of course I worked on it for at least 30 minutes before I consulted the manual and then it only took 2-3 minutes :wink: .
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: Pudge99
Date: 01-19-2005, 08:02 PM (7 of 12)
I went to the Janome dealer and asked about the sequence. That is a Bernina, Husquvarna thing. You can thread Janomes any old way you want to. It is easier if you do it in the order they suggest but it really doesn't matter.
So, for all you people out there asking about which type of serger to get. Janome has my vote.
Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures
Pfaff 2040
Janome Mylock 134D
Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch
Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001
Total posts: 1375
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-19-2005, 08:44 PM (8 of 12)
Mine is an antique that only does serging and rolled hemming, but I have always tied new thread on for the loopers and run the machine.. (I don't have to record settings or any of that) I do the same thing for the needles , but I watch the thread and stop when the knot gets to the needles eyes.. I then cut the knot and thread the 2 needles, and I'm good to go.. My manual says it is easier to thread the upper looper first if you are starting from scratch, but there is just one place where I have to slip it under the lower looper thread if I am just re-threading the upper looper.. I watch my cones a lot closer now so I don't run out of thread in the middle of something. (surprise, surprise) I hate that... :bg: :bg:
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: Mother in Law
Date: 01-20-2005, 12:11 AM (9 of 12)
Now I have a manual and it says to thread the lower looper first. Then the upper and then the needles. But I'm always getting Weird things that work backwards. I have a Euro Pro.
User: Mother in Law
Member since:
Total posts:
From: Skye
Date: 01-20-2005, 01:02 AM (10 of 12)
Ease of threading was how I chose my serger 13 years ago. The bernina and brother(brand choice was limited here back then) dealers both said they would demonstrate how to thread the machines after I had bought one. The elna dealer cut the threads poof re threaded in an instant. Showed me how it worked then sat me down and let me test drive what was a scarey bit of machinery - so fast!. Any way he then cut the threads and said follow the diagragm on the machine 2nd try I had it sorted. I didn't buy the machine that day. I went back and revisited the other dealers. still no demo on the threading issue despite me saying I had tried the Elna. That machine owes me nothing I will always keep it.
Skye
User: Skye
Member since: 09-28-2000
Total posts: 233
From: Kylnne2
Date: 01-20-2005, 03:59 PM (11 of 12)
Sergers vary in the sequence of threading..some say to thread the upper looper first and some say the lower one first..the main thing is to keep the lower looper thread over the upper looper. If you do not..your serger could possibly jam and your stitch will not be correct. Needles should be threaded last..some machines say to thread the lt. one first some the rt. one first..my serger has 5 needles..they go in different sequence. The main thing to remember is to make sure the needle threads are free and not into the feed when rethreading..so best to have needles threaded last or have a needle tension release on your serger so you can pull the threads free before starting a new chain. When using another looper like the chain looper for doing coverhem and beaded chain ..it is a totally different way of threading but just as easy.
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004
Total posts: 629
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-20-2005, 08:32 PM (12 of 12)
I forgot to mention 2 things.. My serger is color coded for threading.. Each little gizmo is color coded for the looper or needle it belongs to.. That is a big help if I ever have to thread it from scratch..
Also, when I first got it all those years ago, all the dealers in my area had frequent seminars.. Quite frequently one would be on sergers.. I learned all kinds of tricks that were not in the manual.. One is this, raise the presser foot and grab the stitched thread leading out from the stitch finger and give a good, tug (don't jerk) on these threads until you have all 4 individual threads hanging off the back just like a sewing machine.. Now you can start a serged seam anywhere on your fabric that you want to. None of that cut a clip out of the fabric to start and all that mess..I use that trick every once in a while and it is very helpful. :bg: :bg: .
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
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