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From: abcameo
Date: 05-13-2006, 02:48 PM (1 of 16)
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I'm soo excited. After relentless research on machines and prices, I finally narrowed my choice to a Husqvarna Viking machine. I was looking at the 900 series, but then discovered the 1003LCD, 1002LCD & 1001L machines. They were top-of-the-line and still have the LCD advisor but you can find them used for great prices. Of course, I'd love to have ALL the bells and whistles--like the coverstitch capability--but realistically, I can live without that. I just bought the 1001L, and I'll have it in 2 weeks--YIPPEEE/dance of joy around my computer! Have a few questions for anyone familiar with this machine & in general: 1. Does it handle denim easily? My girlfriend wants me to heam a slew of her jeans. 2. Where can I find accessory feet? The a set of specialty feet I was thinking of buying doesn't match this machine. 3. Sergers take so much thread, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on where to find best pricing--either at a shop (like JoAnn's) or online? Is it okay to use inexpensive thread in the serger? I knew my sewing machine store warned everyone about using Coats & Clarks in their sewing machines saying it causes too much build up of lint in the motor. Truthfully, I'm not sure I believe them--afterall, they only sell Gutermann, Sulky & Mettler, so naturally, they want to push the higher-end brands. People have been Coats & Clark forever. Still, not wanting to take a chance, I did switch and use my C&C for handstitching. 4. I've got some pretty linen fabric for shawls. I'd like suggestions on how to hem the edges with a decorative stitch. Can I use wing needles in the serger? Do you think I need stabilizer on the back (as I did for the sewing machine), or will the serger handle fabric differently and allow me to work directly on the fabric? Many thanks for any replies, Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: bluebirdie
Date: 05-14-2006, 11:39 AM (2 of 16)
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Congradulations on your new serger. You'll have so much fun with it. I never thought adding one machine would make such differences but it does! Mine is a Baby Lock and it serges on thick demin just fine. Since yours is a Viking with good reputation, it should have no problem. Mine looks best with long/wide stitches on thick demin. Now (being paraniod) when I serge with more than 2 layers of thick demin, I hand cut instead of letting the serger cut it. My threads are mostly Coats and Maxilock. They seem to work fine for me so far. When I got my serger, I was shocked to see the amount of lint generated in my serger, compared to my sewing machine using the same brand of thread. But since I brush down my serger every 20 min anyways and clean it thouroughly once a week, the lint doesn't bother me as long as it serges well and never breaks. I hit Joanns on thread sales but purchase my woolly and texturized online because local options are very limited and too expensive. Serger does use up threads like crazy. You may want to start shopping for a good deal now 
- Robin
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User: bluebirdie
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 139 |
From: abcameo
Date: 05-14-2006, 01:28 PM (3 of 16)
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Hi, Robin: Thanks for writing back, Robin. I expect the denim will run fine--but my girlfriend was so eager for an answer, I promised to post it to a forum. She works in a consignment shop where she can buy jeans for cheap. Since she lives in 'em, she always has new batches piled up ready for rehemming. I think she's as excited about me getting this machine as I am.  I've got to confess, I'm terrified when I think of using the knife. I usually end up ripping more than I sew before I eventually get it right, so the thought of losing seam edges is scary... I'm sure I'll adjust I already started researching prices online and set up a favorites folder and added some sites. A few good ones I found so far were createforless, sewtrue, threadart and fashionfabricclub. it's pretty daunting to think you've got to buy 4-5 spools per garment. I supposed, like everything else, it's wise to buy a few basic colors, the clear monofilament to go with everything, and then build your thread stash gradually, adding colors as they go on sale. I took out a terrific creative serging book from the library, and I was looking at the fringing technique. I think I'll fringe all sides of my shawl as one of my first finishing techniques. Perhaps I'll try it using a wing needle somehow to make it especially decorative. Since it's loose linen weave, it seems like a wing needle technique is perfect for this fabric. I bought it as a remnant, so I can afford to risk wrecking it if it doesn't work. I would still like advice on whether I need to use stabilizer on this kind of fabric when serging. Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 05-14-2006, 02:10 PM (4 of 16)
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Amy -- I still machine baste my seams before I run them through the serger. I know some of the serger fanatics will say that is a waste of time but if you sometimes have to take them out you might think about it, at least for a while. It keeps the pins out of that knife too. Oh yeah, to match colors you really only need to thread the loopers with the matching color. The needles can be something close or just black or white or a nice neutral color. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: bluebirdie
Date: 05-14-2006, 02:17 PM (5 of 16)
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Hi Amy, You're absolutely right on stocking up on basic color first, then go for match or highlight. I did exactly that at first. Also I did switch to cones instead of spools after hearing suggestion from fellow sewer on this forum. The first night I got my serger, I used up all my small spools of b/w :-0 I now shop for cone threads only and they last much longer. If you stay with regular coton/poly threads, you should have no problem finding them. Other than Joann thread sale, I also use their coupon for cone thread (I get it through mail almost monthly). But for special threads, I get better quality and more yardage from online stores with same price (compared to local). So far, I have serged satin rolled hem with no stablizer, starch-iron linen fabric to make it easier to work with, also serged with interfacing. But I never tried wing needle or fringed hem. That sounds like a lot of fun. I haven't tried stabalizer for loosely woven fabric, but starch iron definitely helped for my application. Hm... normally there would have been more response to your posting by now. I guess everyone is busy with Mother's day. I know other folks on this forum are much more experienced than me and may have done wing needle serging before. But do share with us once you try that on your new serger. I love to hear how it turns out. - Robin
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User: bluebirdie
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 139 |
From: Patty22
Date: 05-14-2006, 04:30 PM (6 of 16)
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Amy.... Congratulations on your new serging baby. I've never used my serger for hemming jeans. My oldest daughter always hated the way shortened jeans looked and then she brought home a pair she had hemmed while she was NYCity while visiting old classmates. Since I could never get the topsitching identical to the way it was originally hemmed on the bottom I found this method used by the tailor very clever. The bottom of the jeans are left intact and right above the top stitching, tuck to the inside the amount of fabric to get the jeans to the length you want. Then above the top stitching and not catching in the hem, sew a seam. Your seam line will be above the top stitching. Then on the inside, trim the seam if there is more than an inch, finish off the raw edges and then I hand hem the fabric to stabilize it. The seam line ends up being hardly visible and the only thing you notice is the original top stitching. Does this make sense? If you can understand what I wrote and you try this, I think you'd be happy with the results. My oldest daughter (who is very picky) is thrilled with the results. Patty Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: esrun3
Date: 05-14-2006, 05:40 PM (7 of 16)
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Congrats on your new serger. I haven't hemmed denim on my machine yet. Still working on not missing the curves when I make pants so for some things I still sew first and then serge. I've also had trouble with flannel not fraying even when serged-it seems to pull away from the stitching so have gone back to sewing with it the regular way and then serging the edges but still leaving a seam allowance. Enjoy!
Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: abcameo
Date: 05-15-2006, 02:47 PM (8 of 16)
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Hi, Patty: That sounds like a good way to go on hemming jeans, but then you have to hand sew denim--and isn't that what we're all trying to avoid since it's heavy and hard to push a needle through??  Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: abcameo
Date: 05-15-2006, 03:07 PM (9 of 16)
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[QUOTE=DorothyL]Amy -- I still machine baste my seams before I run them through the serger. I know some of the serger fanatics will say that is a waste of time but if you sometimes have to take them out you might think about it, at least for a while. It keeps the pins out of that knife too. ********Hi, Dorothy: This sounds like an excellent tip--at least till I become proficient in--well...let's face it, till I become an expert seamstress, not just a sergerspert. Oh yeah, to match colors you really only need to thread the loopers with the matching color. The needles can be something close or just black or white or a nice neutral color. ********I didn't know this. Thank you. I figured everything had to match unless you deliberately want to make it very decorative. Well, I took a plunge and just purchased some used cheap but cool serger refrence books online at Half.com and Amazon.: - I bought the one I've currently been using from the library: "The New Creative Serging Illustrated." This book is really excellent, loaded with information and ideas. -"Serger Secrets: High Fashion Techniques for Creatiing Great-Looking Clothes" -"Serger Idea Book" -"ABC's of Serging" I know, I always go so overboard when I get interested in a subject. It's like an obsessive/compulsive disorder!  Still, they were so inexpensive, I figure it's worth it...I snagged all of them for pretty much what would amount to buying one if I paid full retail. There's nothing like a good reference library at your fingertips--unless, of course, you're lucky enough to have a mom or grandma who are seamstresses.Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 05-15-2006, 03:48 PM (10 of 16)
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Amy -- I'm just learning to use the serger myself and sitting next to my machine I have a copy of The Complete Serger Handbook by Chris James. I have read it cover to cover and refer to it often for the basics. I have several books on special decorative techniques but this is the best I've found for a beginner. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Patty22
Date: 05-15-2006, 06:13 PM (11 of 16)
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Amy......actually after you sew the hem seam you could serge and forget about the hemming by hand. The hemming by hand isn't bad because I use a straw needle and it slides through the fabric. My favorite thing to do with my serger when I first got it was making cloth tableclothes and matching napkins as gifts.....or just the cloth napkins to put in a basket of different teas, scone mixes, crackers and the napkins really made the basket nice. Good luck and have fun with your machine...... Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: abcameo
Date: 05-15-2006, 07:34 PM (12 of 16)
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Hey, Patty: Okay, I give up, what's a "straw needle?" I'll have to Google it to see what it looks like and what it does.  Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 05-16-2006, 12:04 PM (13 of 16)
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Are you sure that a wing needle will work on a serger.. I know mine is older than dirt, but it would not work on mine.. I thought a wing needle would only work on a sewing machine with a bobbin..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: Patty22
Date: 05-16-2006, 04:08 PM (14 of 16)
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Amy, A straw needle is a very, very, very fine needle used for applique. I started using them when I was doing a Baltimore Album Quilt and went to a workshop taught by Elly Sienkiewicz. I think I bought the vendor out of them at the time realizing how great they were. Along with using silk thread almost any kind of fabric can be tackled by hand..... Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: abcameo
Date: 05-16-2006, 09:40 PM (15 of 16)
I did google it, and decided yep, got to try one. It's so great how much you can learn by yakking. Thank you for the great info.  Amy
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User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: bluebirdie
Date: 05-17-2006, 05:47 PM (16 of 16)
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Are you sure that a wing needle will work on a serger.. .. That's a good point. I never thought wing needle would not work on serger as long as they're the right size. But then I never used one... It's always a good idea to check with the manufacturer to make sure this serger can handle wing needle. And whenever I put on a new type of needle(s), I always hand turn to make sure it's not touching anything BEFORE I ADD ANY THREADs. Better safe than sorry 
- Robin
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User: bluebirdie
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 139 |
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